Šibenik’s historic centre climbs a hillside beneath St Michael’s Fortress, so much of it is a maze of stone lanes and stairways – the city counts some 2,800 steps. At its height in the 17th century Šibenik was the largest city in Dalmatia, which is why its old town is larger than you might expect.
Republic of Croatia Square, with the cathedral and the loggia, has been the heart of city life since the Middle Ages. Nearby are the Square of the Four Wells, once the city’s largest public cistern, and the Medieval Garden of St Lawrence, tucked away among the steep streets of Gorica. Below, the waterfront promenade is lovely for an evening walk.
Šibenik has its own word for a hearty mid-morning meal: marenda. Local cooking blends Venetian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian influences with ingredients from the islands, the hinterland and the fields around the city – from small fried fish to slow-cooked stews.